We had planned on going to Le Mans, visiting the city, race museum, seeing the race in a restaurant/bar, and then taking the TGV back to Paris in the evening. Unfortunately we missed our train back to Paris and spent the night at the race track. It wasn’t the most comfortable night, but I would do it again… with proper planning.

Le Mans is a fairly short trip, around 1 hour via TGV, from Paris. We took a slower train down to Le Mans and decided to jump off and visit Chartres along the way. This was a good idea, as we really didn’t need to arrive too early for the race. You’ll have plenty of time to walk around and see the track during the race time.

The trip is not too expensive, especially if you plan in advance. The train tickets will cost around 70 euros for round trip tickets. The race is around 70 euros. You can pay extra for the museum, food, souvenirs, etc. You’ll also want to purchase a day pass for the tram from Le Mans to the race track, which is around 5 euros.

Things to bring

We didn’t plan on actually attending the race, so we were badly prepared. These are the things that would have made the trip much, much, much better.

• A folding chair! Bring something comfortable and light-weight. The track does not provide seating unless you pay extra for the grand stands. You’ll find yourself standing and sitting on concrete for the majority of the time. I was sore for a week after this event.
• Food and water. The track lets you bring in your own goodies, in fact you’ll be swimming through a sea of empty beer bottles by the end of the race. So plan on packing water bottles and food in your backpack. The track food is actually not too bad or expensive, especially if you are used to the poison darts (hot dogs) at American race tracks.
• Jacket and/or blanket. You’ll want something light weight for extra warmth around 3 a.m. and it doesn’t hurt to make it waterproof as the race is known to attract rain clouds.
• Tent. There are tents everywhere. Bring one if you plan on staying several days. Personally I would recommend staying up all night for the race. It’s actually more interesting at night than during the day. I was pretty bored when the sun came back up after watching the lights at night.

Things you won’t need

• Camera. Le Mans is not a phtogenic event. You won’t get great action photos due to the fences and the distance between the race track and stands. So don’t stress about bringing a camera unless you are serious about it. You’ll need a telephoto.
• Hat. You’ll find affordable souvenir hats everywhere you turn. So plan on spending 10-20 euros on a hat that supports your favorite team. I purchased a vintage style Le Mans hat for about 10 euros that is quite comfortable and well made. The souvenir stands are much more affordable than what you’ll find at American race tracks.
• Beer. Ok, bring some if you like. It seems like everyone that gets on the shuttle sounds like they have a liquor store in their backpacks. So you can probably beg, borrow, and steal some libation from a fellow race fan. Speaking of which, the stands are filled with amazingly friendly and welcoming people.

Where to sit

We met some veteran race fans while waiting for the shuttle. We were told to hang out just past the starting line. This was good advice as the cars have to quickly down shift and enter a tight set of turns. I would also recommend visiting the inside section of the track. Oh I wish we had done that during the night. You can find grass to lie on instead of concrete and actual seats. Heck, I saw a cafe table or two I would have gladly slept on.

Where to eat

Le Mans is not the most exciting city in the world. I was surprised how dead it was in the evening. Take the tram to the Republique stop to find more than two restaurants. You’ll also notice the grocery and convenience stores close early.

There are some small towns that sit near the various race entrances. These look more race-centric and you’ll probably find a more festive environment.

Should you go?

The 24 Hours of Le Mans is a great race. If you enjoy auto racing the answer is obvious. It’s a relaxing event with high spirits and festive attitude. The cars are very fast and you’ll only see a few seconds of them at a time. It is hard to tell who is in the lead and the multitude of big screens typically show the pitstops and rarely the race leaders. So you’ll find yourself watching the cars go by and not really worrying about who is winning until the last few hours.

Should non-race fans go? I would say yes if you enjoy festivals. This is more than a race, you’ll also find concerts, festival grounds, and lots of drunk friendly people to party with.

I wouldn’t recommend it for the following people:

• People that hate noise. The Audi‘s were surprisingly quiet but the Corvettes barrel through with a blast.
• People that are fastidious. You’re gonna get dirty sitting on the ground, leaning against the railings, or any number of other situations.
• Environmentalists. I am or have been a member of Greenpeace, WWF, PETA, and other environmental groups, so I can appreciate the concerns over the toxic gasses emitted during these 24 hours. Don’t come to Le Mans if that is going to stop you from enjoying the race.

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Most people, like myself, discover this the hard way when they move and find a bill for the backdated rent increase.

This is actually a pretty reasonable function. It removes the arbitrary rental increases and uses a schedule developed by the French government. My apartment that cost 1,250 euros/month had a rent increase last year of 55 euros/month. I’m not sure how that relates to other cities, but I thought it was reasonable and similar to what you’d pay in California.

Locals and tourists are going to find these very helpful. I just found out that I could take a bus from my apartment to the Eiffel Tower. These maps give you traffic warnings, time estimates, connections, and much more.

It’s only in French, but easy enough to use for non-french speakers. You can also see what the metro stations look like with my interactive metro photograph map.

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I wont drive a car in Paris… no, no, no

Owning a car in Paris is a liability more than a benefit. Drivers  have to find parking, fuel is expensive, and traffic jams make commuting a slow arduous process. Bertrand Delanoë, the mayor of Paris, has made alternate transportation a priority to reduce congestion and the effects of pollution. The tiny smart car and motorcycles are common alternatives for personal transportation.

Life with the Paris metro

The nearest metro station is a reference point for business and personal addresses. You may find yourself looking for a hotel or apartment located near your favorite metro line. The various metro lines criss-cross the city, touching just about every neighborhood within the city limits.

you’ll rarely have to walk more than a quarter mile to reach a station.

The dynamic duo – metro and bus

Paris has a world-class bus system as well as the metro. Your metro ticket is valid for both. Use the metros for faster commuting and the buses for shorter trips, sightseeing, or when you’d rather enjoy the view. Buses are also more popular with the elderly and those who want to avoid the many steps inside metro stations. You can also grab shuttle boats on the Seine during summer.

You can walk through the city 24 hours a day with little concern for violent crime. That doesn’t mean Paris is free of crime; pickpockets are waiting for your valuables. They’ll grab what’s easy to get and leave the prepared alone. Which do you want to be?

I have been pickpocketed four times during my travels. Each instance has taught me a lesson and hopefully they will save you from being caught unaware.

1. Don’t carry unnecessary items.

I was first pickpocketed in Tijuana, Mexico in an extremely crowded church during the Celebration of the Virgin de Guadalupe. My pockets were full of keys, wallet, film, camera stuff, sunglasses, etc. I couldn’t control all of them. Sure enough, a tiny 90+ year old man stole my prescription sunglasses from my back pocket.

Extremely crowded situations are perfect for pickpockets. You can’t keep a hand on all of your possessions. Make sure you zip up any pockets and consolidate your goodies to pockets that you can monitor.

Potential problem areas in Paris include the #1 metro during rush hours and Notre Dame.

If you are near Mexico during early December, I highly recommend attending the Celebration for the Virgin de Guadalupe. Regardless of being pickpocketed, it is one of the greatest events I have ever attended. It’s a joyous, beautiful event with humble roots.

2. Stay alert and watch out for your fellow person

The second pickpocket attempt was pretty sloppy and unsuccessful. I was listening to my iPod and clueless to my surroundings. I was on a fairly busy metro train and carrying an old military messenger-type bag. A drunk guy kept sticking his hand into my empty bag and the fellow passengers began yelling at him. I thought they were yelling at me and I didn’t know what to say. Eventually someone told me in English that he was trying to grab stuff from my bag.

Pickpockets, even drunk and incompetent ones, will go for the easy target. Always be alert for yourself and your fellow passengers. Don’t hesitate to warn someone that their backpack is unzipped, someone is acting strangely, you think something is unsafe, etc. Your fellow passengers will appreciate it.

Avoid using a backpack in these busy environments. If you are using one, turn it around and carry it on your chest instead of your back. This will help you keep control of its contents and actually makes room for your fellow passengers.

Better yet, buy a messenger bag instead. I highly recommend this laptop bag from Kenneth Cole. It has plenty of secure pockets, easy access to laptops during airport screenings, and a neoprene shoulder strap to make it seem lighter. I have been using this bag for several months and have truly appreciated its quality. Place the flap against your body for more security.

3. Never let down your guard in risky areas

My third pickpocket attempt left me without a digital camera and memories of lost images. I was in Barcelona, Spain and thought I was being careful. Barcelona is notorious for having rampant pickpockets. You have to keep a hand on your belongings at all time.

However, I visited a cyber cafe to check my email and put my coat over the back of the chair. A sketchy looking guy sat in a chair behind me and proceeded to rifle my jacket pockets while I was busy on the computer. Afterwards, I noticed warning signs for pickpockets around the cafe. If you know you are at risk, be careful with your belongings.

4. Don’t look lost and don’t hesitate to leave unusual encounters

The last pickpocket unsuccessfully tried to steal my wallet. It was a drawn-out event that left me chuckling and checking my pockets every few minutes.

I was walking around the Montparnasse neighborhood in Paris; mindlessly wandering the back-streets and hopelessly lost. The unfolded map and unsteady gate made it obvious I was a confused tourist.

A short, well dressed man approached me and made his acquaintance. He made some simple chit chat and then thanked me for not being so rude, like the last person he had chatted with. He then proceeded to illustrate how the last person had tried some karate moves on him… in a very jovial way.

The entire time he was twisting me around, he was trying to remove my wallet. Unfortunately for him, I had put my folded up map in the same pocket and when he finally extracted his prize, it was the map and not my wallet. I looked at the map, at him, at the map, checked my wallet, and gave him a nod for a job well done. I was actually more impressed by the whole event than upset. I’m sure it would have been different if he left me with the map instead of my money. But all’s well that ends well.

If you are in a situation where you feel uncomfortable, especially when someone is touching you, leave. Don’t worry about appearing rude or angry, just get out of there.

You don’t need the hidden money belts, over the shoulder cash holders, and other assorted security devices sold in travel stores. These will just make shopping less fun. You may want to remove extra credit cards, passports, etc before leaving the hotel. Enjoy Paris, be careful, and don’t avoid walking around the city at night. It’s a magical time.

This is why some people complain about the horribly rude service during their vacations, while others beam with stories of wonderful treatment. It’s easy to enjoy the best of French people, just understand the following rules.

1. Recognize the proprietor. Shopping in the U.S. is an anonymous activity. We walk into a shop, handle the merchandise, joke with friends about prices and quality, and don’t actually talk to an employee until the mindless chatter at the cash register. It’s difficult to open a store in France. Many times, the owner will be the first person you see as you enter a shop. You are not just walking into a room with merchandise; you are entering a person’s private space and making an intimate connection with them. Acknowledge the store’s workers. A simple “Bon Jour” as you cross the threshold goes a long way. Further, mention how beautiful the décor, merchandise, and/or environment is. Don’t grab merchandise and tease your friends with it. Regardless of making a purchase or not; thank the person as you leave.The bottom line: treat the store as if you’ve entered their home, not just another Walmart or 7/11.
2. Hands off: There are magnificent outdoor markets in France. Every neighborhood in Paris will have a temporary market at least once a week, usually twice. There are also some wonderful permanent market spaces, such as my favorite: Rue Mouffetard. You’ll see a great selection of local and international foods displayed with an artistic flair. The vendors are experts in their fields. They also take great pride in providing you the best choices. In the U.S. we are examine our fruits and vegetables. Each grocery store apple could be handled by dozens of shoppers looking for their favorite one. Don’t do this in France, it’s highly offensive. Simply say hello to the market person and tell them what you’d like. They will select the best fruits, vegetables, cheese, etc for you. Enjoy the pride they take in their work.
3. You are not being ignored: Perhaps one of the biggest differences in French and American culture can be found in restaurants. In the U.S., we expect waiters to check in on us regularly. They ask if the food is ok, do we want more water, to bring the check as soon as we are finished eating, etc.The French waiter is also watching your table but in a more discreet manner. They will watch for telltale signs that you need more water, bread, a plate removed, the next course served, etc. A good French waiter will appear before you think about asking for service.Meals are sacred in France. The restaraunt table is your space until you are ready to leave. You will be provided for and more importantly given privacy until you are ready to leave. This also means you will not be rushed to leave the restaurant for the next set of guests. When you are ready to leave, simply raise your hand to get the waiter’s attention and quietly request the bill.
4. Forget the ice: Sodas are served without ice. Get over it. Learn to drink a Coke without a glass full of ice. Many restaurants have tiny kitchens and don’t stock large supplies of ice for customers.
5. Waiting in line: Americans have no problems waiting in lines. The French do. Don’t get upset if you’ve been standing in line for tickets to a theater and a local cuts in to the line. It’s like a national sport to avoid lines and taxes.
6. Staring is ok. There’s a difference between Americans and French. In America, we prepare for our debut on the way to the office. You’ll see people applying makeup, dressing, shaving, etc in their cars as they head to work. Women will wear tennis shoes with dresses as they head to work. In France, you make your debut as you leave your door. The whole city is a stage. It’s ok to stare at someone, to appreciate their wardrobe, creativity, and style. It’s a very flirtatious society, expect to be admired or viewed by both sexes.
7. Be yourself, don’t dress to impress. Look at the difference between a French and American film. American films are filled with action, little dialogue, and always have a happy ending. French films are filled with dialogue, psychological studies, moral issues, and usually have an unhappy ending. The French are surrounded with literature, cinema, theater, poetry, and art that analyzes a person’s inner self, their morals, issues, and expectations. They’ll see right through someone trying to be who they aren’t. Dress comfortably and true to your personality. Don’t cover yourself with jewelry and expensive clothes unless that is truly your circle. You also shouldn’t dress down. Just be yourself.
8. It’s ok to smoke: Sure there are laws against smoking in restaurants, cleaning up after your dog, and such. But these are not really laws, they are suggestions. If you are from California or another area that enjoys smoke-free areas, you’ll have to get used to some smoke. Don’t tell someone to put out their cigarette or lecture them about their health.